Drink Till You’re Smart

Food news we know you can use

 

Typically, summer is a death sentence for a number of Miami restaurants, and we've already lost some good ones. But overall it looks like a hot season in more ways than one. Before we get to that, remember this: We need your help. Signs of a restaurant opening or closing in your neighborhood? Send your tips to
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. I'll check them out.

 

(661 Brickell Key Dr., 305-947-6263 Chef Kevin Cory's superb seasonal omakase (chef's choice Japanese restaurant, which closed last year owing to demolition of its former location, just reopened on Brickell Key. See the Dining Guide for a description of the food, which is worth every cent. What isn't: the rip-off rates at the island's one parking garage, $3 per 20 minutes. With Naoe's multicourse dinners running more than three hours, opt instead to valet, for $2 per hour, at Courvoisier Courts condo next door (701 Brickell Key Dr..

(2531 NW 2nd Ave., 305-748-2828. A new addition to Wood Tavern's outdoor bar/beer garden, this graffiti-covered stand, incorporating a 1964 station wagon, serves Mexican street food: $2 tacos (homemade tortillas stuffed with steak or chicken plus onions, cilantro, and hot sauce or cheese quesadillas.

(620 NE 78th St., 305-758-2929. It's in Anise Tavern's former space on the Little River. Gigi and Liza Meoli still run the front of the house, while co-owner and chef David Long is in the kitchen. But the food is totally different, no longer Greek/Mediterranean but New American Gastrofishcamp comfort food.

(1451 S. Miami Ave., 305-371-8859 This chic but completely nonattitudinous bistro/lounge opened without media notice, but only its publicity is poor. Paris-trained chef/owner Gerardo Barrera De Negri serves skilled versions of all France's classics, including a perfectly grilled rib-eye entrecôte (with béarnaise or, even better, complexly spiced Café de Paris compound butter and a crème brûlée ethereal enough to win over cynics who got over this dessert cliché 15 years ago.

 

, a Design District pioneer since 2008. Owner Ken Lyon (a South Beach food pioneer with Lyon Freres in the early 1990s, who cited differences in vision with his partners as cause for the closing, is offering a summer menu of Fratelli specialties through his catering company Lyon Lyon. Meanwhile, Fratelli's space at 4141 NE 2nd Ave. is being redesigned for MC Kitchen, a "modern Italian" eatery from Dena Marino, a Michael Chiarello protégé and Iron Chef contestant. Opening is scheduled for August.

, in Midtown Miami. Universal critical acclaim (both local and national for its creative comfort food and cocktails; a commitment to local, seasonal, sustainable ingredients; interesting music… Sustain had it all except, according to owner Brian Goldberg, the finances to sustain itself. Partner Jonathan Lazar is already back in Brooklyn, at new Gran Electrica restaurant. No word yet on the plans of chef Alejandro Pinero, a Miami native and Fratelli veteran.

, in Brickell, an excellent but expensive seafood restaurant that opened last December but never established an enticing identity. "Mediterranean" just doesn't do it these days.

 

Remember all the lavish, and informative, zillion-course wine dinners of yesteryear? At , the intimate, top-end restaurant at Brickell's JW Marriott (1109 Brickell Ave. diners can revisit those decadent days of drinking one's way to educational excellence at its new monthly winemaker's dinner series.

Revelation from May's inaugural dinner with France's famed Perrin family: a Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape containing only two grams of sulfite per gallon vs. the 100 grams allowed — no migraines!

June's dinner date isn't set yet. Evidently prestige producers don't confirm till the last minute, according to PR rep José Lima. So call 305-329-3585 for details.

Along with pop-up eateries in vacant restaurant spaces, a newer trend has come to BT territory, in the form of one-night "chef pops" in a working restaurant — Michael Schwartz's (3918 N. Miami Ave., 786-275-4963. The one-night "pizzerias" feature visiting star chefs and fare that actually ranges from pies to fine-dining dishes. Tickets are now on sale for June 17's Animal Pizzeria, a collaboration with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, two former Florida dudes whose outrageous L. A. restaurant Animal is famed for serving, literally, the whole hog.

June means jazz (and blues at (2550 NW 2nd Ave., 305-722-8959, where the outdoor stage will host free live concerts, curated by Grammy-winning flutist Nestor Torres, every Thursday-Saturday at 8:00 p.m. For the schedule of artists: www.wynwoodkitchenandbar.com.

Finally, see this issue's "BizBuzz" (page 30 for more restaurant news and deals from BT advertisers Bagels Company, Hippo Bites, La Cigale, Laurenzo's, Namaste, Trio on the Bay, Tuna's, and Turnberry Isle.

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